Double Your Profit With These 5 Tips about What Is Billiards > 커뮤니티 카카오소프트 홈페이지 방문을 환영합니다.

This keyway is more "open" than the Arrow, and there aren't really any "platforms" on which to pivot your pick. If this happens, you won't get the lock open until you release torque and start over. An important skill when picking is to recognize when this has happened so you don't waste time before you start over. Much of lock picking skill depends on testing pins stacks for the purpose of finding which to push up next and assuring that no pins are overset. Many inexpensive locks, especially low-security "cam" locks such as those used to secure furniture and cabinets, do not use pin stacks for their tumblers. Picking lever locks generally requires different tools from those used for pin tumbler locks, and high security lever locks often require specialized purpose-made tools. If serrated bottom pins are used as well (as they are in, e.g., certain American brand padlocks), snap guns, bump keys, or sawtooth raking are likely the only picking techniques that will succeed, especially for the novice. Note that excessive raking with any of these techniques will tend to overset pins, so be prepared to release torque and start over from time to time. Now release torque and try again, but this time lift the pins as little as you can when you test them, while still distinguishing between the two states.

Now (as long as you continue to apply torque) the other pin should be binding. You should already be able to distinguish between an unset pin that isn't binding, an already set pin, and a pin that is binding. If you inadvertently push a pin up too far or are applying so much torque that more than one pin is binding, what is billiards you may have an overset pin instead. The underlying locking mechanism is still mechanical and may be subject to mechanical bypass. If you release pressure with your pick while still applying torque, the bottom pin will drop freely, and will not have any spring pressure if you try to push it back up. You may find one of the smaller LAB hook picks to be easier here than the larger Peterson picks, although you can usually still pick this keyway with the small Peterson hook. When you've mastered the SX locks, try the "Schlage SC" keyway locks. While a fairly wide range of torque will sometimes pick these locks, try find the lightest torque that works. It will take a bit of practice to find just the right technique. Note that while many locks pick predominantly back to front or front to back, there are exceptions, and you may find that the binding pin stack "jumps around" from the back to the front to the middle and so on.

If you're having trouble, you may be pushing adjacent pins up past the shear line as you pick a pin, causing them to be overset even before they start to bind. While this might have gotten the lock open, you just as easily might have pushed the cut past the shear line entirely, preventing the lock from opening altogether. Overset/binding. The cut in the pin stack is past the shear line. It moves freely up until it reaches the shear line, where it "hits a wall" and can move no further. It feels much as it does when binding and unset, but will not set (since a binding pin can only move up, not down). Do not assume that the next pin will be adjacent to the one you just set. Chances are the two pins will be reversed -- the formerly springy one will give resistance and the formerly stuck one will be springy. The other should give you a bit of resistance. It feels "squishy," with more resistance than from just the spring. In a variety of the game called three-cushion billiards, the cue ball must also touch a cushion or cushions three or more times to complete a carom.

Once you've mastered the two pin lock and can distinguish reliably among pin states, you should have little trouble with a three pin lock. Set/not-binding. The pin stack was already picked. Congratulations, you've picked the (two pin) lock. Finally, lift the pin that sets first very high before you apply torque. Finally, for a real challenge, try the Yale "Y1" keyway locks. And the real world is not an idea, it is not words. The Y1 keyway is one of the toughest you are likely to encounter in real lock installations in the US. Some wafter lock cylinders (especially certain Chicago-brand locks) are double bitted, with some wafers making contact with the key at the top of the keyway and others at the bottom. Keep practicing with the two pin lock, trying to lighten your touch as you do, and making sure you consistently can pick the pins one at a time. Again, try to find and lift all the pins with the different hook picks without applying any torque. Find the binding pin and the non-binding pin. Only one pin stack should be in a binding state at any given time, of course. It becomes distinguishable from an unset/binding pin stack when you try to set it; while it binds, it does not set, no matter how much further it is lifted.