Notes on Picking Pin Tumbler Locks > 커뮤니티 카카오소프트 홈페이지 방문을 환영합니다.

Good tools are important, to be sure, but once a few basic tools are available the student of lock picking is usually better off investing in new locks on which to practice rather than in new picking tools. The selection of the torque tool is just as important as that of the pick, but, again, commercial pick kits often fail to include a sufficient range of sizes and designs to allow good control and feel across the range of common locks. While a fairly wide range of torque will sometimes pick these locks, try find the lightest torque that works. Electronic locks, of course, do not have mechanical tumblers and are so not vulnerable to many of the physical manipulations exploited in tradtional lock picking. When practicing for a league or personal skill growth, buyers guides suggest picking a table that is twice as long as its width. Other differences between picks, aside from the shape of the tip, are the material, finish, width and thickness of the tang shaft, and the shape and material of the handle. The proper pick and torque tool selection depend on the shape of the keyway, the features of the lock, the picking technique, and the individual preferences of the user.

The lock will never pick open in this state; you must release torque and start over. It feels "springy," as it does when no torque is applied. If both feel springy, you're not applying enough torque (which is unlikely). If both resist, you're applying too much (the more likely mistake). It can become very tempting to "cheat" a bit here and move ahead the moment you get a difficult lock open the first time, but that will only make the rest of the course that much harder. Much of lock picking skill depends on testing pins stacks for the purpose of finding which to push up next and assuring that no pins are overset. Indeed, security system software may well be considerably worse, since it is often purpose-written and may be subject to only limited scrutiny and testing. A detailed introduction to locks is well beyond the scope of this document; we assume here that you already understand, or have access to, the basic principles. If serrated bottom pins are used as well (as they are in, e.g., certain American brand padlocks), snap guns, bump keys, or sawtooth raking are likely the only picking techniques that will succeed, especially for the novice.

The most comprehensive treatment of raking techniques I've found is in the Finch Manual of Lock Picking, although other authors have different perspectives on the subject. These locks are often quite susceptible to rubbing and jiggle-key raking. When you feel confident visualizing and using picks to maneuver around the pins in the AR1 and SX keyways, you're ready to start actually opening locks. You will need a small set of cylinders in various keyways, a board or vice to hold them in while you practice, and a small re-pinning kit (extra pins and springs and a "follower" tool). See Figure 1. (In practice, the cuts are produced by stacking pin segments of particular lengths, not by actually cutting the pins; hence the term "pin stack.") With no key in the lock, all the pin stack cuts rest within the plug. Not all locks use a physical key. Alternatively, you can use the rounded edge of an inverted hook pick instead of a special rake pick. If you're having trouble, you may be pushing adjacent pins up past the shear line as you pick a pin, causing them to be overset even before they start to bind. Vary the amount of lifting between strokes but do not force the pins, lest you overset them.

Other classes of attack, not discussed here but at least as worthy of study and scrutiny, include lock decoding, which is concerned with producing a working key based only on access to the external interface of the lock, lock bypass, which aims to unlatch the underlying locking mechanism without operating the lock at all, and forced entry, which, as the term suggests, involves the destructive application of force to the lock or its surroundings. And of course there is the surest and fastest method of all: the use of the correct key. Left: The correct key lifts the pin stacks to align the cuts at the shear line. If just one pin sets at the "other" shear line, the lock will not open even though all the pin stacks are picked. An alternative technique, which I have not seen mentioned in the literature, is to first determine which pin stacks have security pins and which have regular pins (by picking normally and noting which stacks are false set).

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