Audi G28: The Good, The Bad, And The Ugly
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작성자 Pilar Nankervis 댓글 0건 조회 3회 작성일 24-10-22 05:52본문
How to Replace an Audi q5 Key G28 Engine Speed Sensor
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic shows how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. The sensor is located near the edges of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal the ECU via an uncolored wire (T55/49) and then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated on the edge of transmission, above the flywheel ring. The sensor sends an electrical signal through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU uses this information to regulate the amount of fuel and boost. It also sends signals to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used as a reference point to connect with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can start spark and injectors according to the situation.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync and could indicate chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper timing chain. The code won't appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing is a bit tricky as there are two different pins for the connector and they perform different functions but the most effective method of testing it is by measuring resistance between the sensor and the ECU. When the sensor is operational, it should be reading about 1000 ohms. If you are having problems with this component, look for signs of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating from the highway paytoll at a high speed I noticed a massive drop in power. It was like the engine had run out of gas. Or, my injectors weren't firing. In the morning, i removed the spark plugs, 3 were drenched in gazoline, the fourth was dry. I put a piece of tissue over each hole in the injector and when i start the engine without sparks, the 3 with gazoline jump out. The 4th one remains closed. I tried to test the ground connections of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I found zero ohm. I assume that the problem is in another location.
I also tried to reset the PID but without success. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected and runs fine when it is plugged in, but still has intermittent misfire issues at higher RPM. The temperature sensor for the coolant (G62) shows the wrong temperature value of that is -49c even after unplugging it. Also i noticed that the oil pressure gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar while the actual pressure is 0.0 if i crank up the engine.
I'm not sure what to do. I feel like i've pretty much eliminated everything else. However, i'm afraid that i might have missed something. Let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 gets a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sensor is identical to the G4 and both function in the 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars so you can easily find one at a wrecking yard or in a local parts store. It is simple to test them - just put your DMM into resistance mode and test the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump on the connector's edge facing upwards). They must be infinite ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that has to know the speed and position of the crankshaft to make a decision about fuel injector timing etc. It utilizes a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to accomplish this. If either of these goes wrong, you will receive codes on the diagnostic scanner which could cause engine shut down.
A malfunctioning G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate speed counter for the gearbox and a gearbox which shifts more quickly than normal, and/or a misfire while in the gear. It is possible that your sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you encounter any of these signs. They are cheap and easy-to-find, especially in the case of a Bosch sensor like ours. Alternatively, the GM version of this component is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine speed sensor could be a cause for a slew of issues with your car. It is an important part of the transmission in your audi a3 spare key since it sends information to the ECU about how fast or slowly the engine is spinning. This sensor could cause the transmission to fail and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the edge of the transmission, over the flywheel ring. It sends signals via gray wire to ECU pin T55/49. The ECU uses this signal to control the flow of fuel and new audi Key boost and also to timigrate. It also sends it to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for any failure by checking the continuity between it and the tachometer, between the ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection on pin T6a/1 (trace [79trace [79]) and between T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should see around 1000 ohms of resistance between these two points. This is a common component across the new audi key 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC until the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU. Good ones might be availble in wrecking yards.
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic shows how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. The sensor is located near the edges of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal the ECU via an uncolored wire (T55/49) and then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed SensorThe grey wire is situated on the edge of transmission, above the flywheel ring. The sensor sends an electrical signal through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU uses this information to regulate the amount of fuel and boost. It also sends signals to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used as a reference point to connect with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can start spark and injectors according to the situation.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync and could indicate chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper timing chain. The code won't appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing is a bit tricky as there are two different pins for the connector and they perform different functions but the most effective method of testing it is by measuring resistance between the sensor and the ECU. When the sensor is operational, it should be reading about 1000 ohms. If you are having problems with this component, look for signs of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating from the highway paytoll at a high speed I noticed a massive drop in power. It was like the engine had run out of gas. Or, my injectors weren't firing. In the morning, i removed the spark plugs, 3 were drenched in gazoline, the fourth was dry. I put a piece of tissue over each hole in the injector and when i start the engine without sparks, the 3 with gazoline jump out. The 4th one remains closed. I tried to test the ground connections of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I found zero ohm. I assume that the problem is in another location.
I also tried to reset the PID but without success. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected and runs fine when it is plugged in, but still has intermittent misfire issues at higher RPM. The temperature sensor for the coolant (G62) shows the wrong temperature value of that is -49c even after unplugging it. Also i noticed that the oil pressure gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar while the actual pressure is 0.0 if i crank up the engine.
I'm not sure what to do. I feel like i've pretty much eliminated everything else. However, i'm afraid that i might have missed something. Let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 gets a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sensor is identical to the G4 and both function in the 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars so you can easily find one at a wrecking yard or in a local parts store. It is simple to test them - just put your DMM into resistance mode and test the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump on the connector's edge facing upwards). They must be infinite ohms.
4. ECUOur 20vt turbo (3B AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that has to know the speed and position of the crankshaft to make a decision about fuel injector timing etc. It utilizes a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to accomplish this. If either of these goes wrong, you will receive codes on the diagnostic scanner which could cause engine shut down.
A malfunctioning G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate speed counter for the gearbox and a gearbox which shifts more quickly than normal, and/or a misfire while in the gear. It is possible that your sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you encounter any of these signs. They are cheap and easy-to-find, especially in the case of a Bosch sensor like ours. Alternatively, the GM version of this component is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine speed sensor could be a cause for a slew of issues with your car. It is an important part of the transmission in your audi a3 spare key since it sends information to the ECU about how fast or slowly the engine is spinning. This sensor could cause the transmission to fail and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the edge of the transmission, over the flywheel ring. It sends signals via gray wire to ECU pin T55/49. The ECU uses this signal to control the flow of fuel and new audi Key boost and also to timigrate. It also sends it to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for any failure by checking the continuity between it and the tachometer, between the ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection on pin T6a/1 (trace [79trace [79]) and between T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should see around 1000 ohms of resistance between these two points. This is a common component across the new audi key 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC until the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU. Good ones might be availble in wrecking yards.
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